South Main Memphis

Memphis has changed a great deal since I last visited 7-years ago. The biggest change for me, was the very visible regeneration of the South Main district which is now full of pretty boutiques, art shops and cafes.

South Main stretches from the Orpheum theatre (one of the most beautiful theatres you will ever visit), past the Civil Rights Museum and up towards STAX studios (now also a museum).

I was lucky enough to get to see one of my favourite artists, Ray Lamontagne, at The Orpheum while I was in Memphis but the venue has a regular plethora of top notch artists to choose from, along with showings of classic movies and plays. The interior is simply stunning and the stage is HUGE! I found it impossible to get a good picture of the entire stage area and frame even from the circle area because it is simply gigantic! Definitely go and check it out if you have time!

One of my very favourite finds in the South Main area was the vintage and repro-vintage store, Red Velvet Vintage. I could tell from the window display that it was going to be right up by street but the service was incredible and the mixture of authentic vintage clothing and accessories with reproduction was just fabulous. I spent way longer than I should have in there and emerged with a beautiful circle dress and a vintage chinese box bag, which I selected from several that I could happily have bought but (unfortunately) couldn't have carried home. The prices are great and the quality of the handbags and purses in particular are fantastic. As a Brit, I simply don't come across the pieces that Red Velvet stock at home, so visiting this shop was a real treat, made even more special by my free Red Velvet cake pop and hair flower (selected by Eryca, the beautiful lady who served me, to match the dress I was wearing). If I lived closer, this would be my favourite haunt for sure!

Another favourite vintage find in South Main is the wonderful Hoot and Louise, just around the corner from Red Velvet and a few doors down from one of the King's favourite burger joints, the Arcade Diner. I tried this wonderful 50s party dress on for size but alas, it didn't fit! My loss, another lady's gain I hope! I did however, emerge with a lovely coral diner dress with sewn in arrow darts :)

As well as these two vintage gems, South Main is also home to numerous art shops, specialising in recycled, New Orleans style art, a wonderful old-school bike shop (Mid-Town Bike Company), bakeries and the fabulous Ernestine and Hazel's (a juke joint/ dive bar) right across from the diner. I love that the whole area has a small town feel to it, staff and shoppers alike made a real effort to stop and chat and to make us feel welcome. Living in a recently regenerated and now thriving city myself (Liverpool), I understand the pride that people feel when their town begins to attract new tourists and visitors and the people of Memphis definitely have a city to be proud of.

As an Elvis fan, one of the key reasons for visiting this street was to experience the Arcade Restaurant, a place renowned as being a favourite spot of the rising star in the 1950s. Elvis would sit in the back booth next to the exit, so that he could slip away easily if he needed to. On top of that, quite a few movies and movie stars have frequented the diner in recent years. Scenes from My Blueberry Nights (Norah Jones), Elizabethtown (Orlando Bloom, Kirsten Dunst), Walk The Line and Great Balls of Fire were filmed here and it's very easy to see why. The decor doesn't appear to have changed since the 50s, nothing deliberately kitschy, traditional faded pinks and turquoises and atomic printed table tops. The menu is traditional American breakfasts, sandwiches and shakes. More about the Arcade Restaurant in my next post!